Difficulty: very hard
Tools required: -slot head screw driver
-generic oil
-mini torch
-metal rod that fits in the spool hole(larger diameter the better, I used a power drill key)
-hammer
-newspaper, or a pad of paper
Pre-cautions: This modification requires the use of heat and oil. Please perform this in a well ventilated area with the availability of a fire extinguisher nearby. Once again, please use your discretion and perform this at your own risk.
This modification is classified very hard as there is a risk of damaging your spool, also it is very hard to put a hammer to something you love. An alternative to this modification is to simply find and purchase a spool that will fit your reel. However if you are already broke from buying this reel and don’t mind modifying the spool, read on at your discretion.
Intended Audience: If you are one that uses mechanical breaking, this modification is not for you. However if you are one that unscrews the mechanical breaks to a point where they are not used, please read on!
Info:
After doing modification #1(spool bearing replacement) I had discovered a IAR roller bearing within the spool. Strangely enough though, this bearing is not shown on the schematic diagram of the reel. Most likely as it is not meant to be removed for maintenance purposes.
The IAR Bearing’s function is given the name ‘Sensi-Brake’ from Abu Garcia’s marketing team. It’s main function is to allow you to use your mechanical breaks only while casting and not retrieving. This works by the IAR bearing locking the spool to the shaft during the direction of the cast, effectively applying the mechanical friction(by the knob adjustment). While in the reeling direction the IAR allows the spool to roll over the shaft. Unfortunately though as roller bearings are not nearly as smooth as ball bearings, they will only function when there is noticeable amount of friction imposed on the shaft.
To summarize, the main purpose of the IAR bearing within the spool is to lock the spool on the shaft during casting, while allowing the spool to rotate during a retrieve(only if mech breaks turned on). I will describe the IAR bearing’s operation in the next two sub-sections:
Casting mode:
In casting mode, the IAR bearing locks the spool onto the shaft, this effectively allows the mechanical breaking to perform. Mechanical breaks are applied by the knob adjustment which effectively applies friction to the shaft during rotation. Only the outer bearings are allowed to spin in this mode(please refer to picture below).
Retrieve mode:
In retrieve mode, the IAR bearing is free to rotate. However will only rotate if the friction applied on the shaft is greater than the friction of the IAR bearing(IAR bearings exhibit a noticeable amount of friction). This would be the case if mechanical breaks were turned. However if the mechanical breaks are adjusted to be low/off, the spool rotation will rely on the outer bearings for both casting and retrieving.
The IAR bearing only adds benefit when you use the mechanical breaking system. Friction is applied during the cast and lessened during the retrieve. However, unless you are someone that uses the mechanical breaking system, the IAR bearing doesn’t add value to your reel in terms of smoothness and casting distance. In fact, if you don’t use mechanical brakes, the IAR bearing renders the spool bearing(s) useless as the spool bearings are overcome by the IAR bearing friction.
With the mechanical breaks turned off all the time, the spool will rely on outer bearings all the time. As a test you can remove the mechanical breaking knob and watch the shaft rotate in sync with your spool. This tells you that the spool and shaft are rotating together, hence the bearings separating them(spool bearings) are not rotating in the case where the mech breaks are turned off.
This modification will allow your spool to rely on both sets of bearings(assuming you now have two bearings in the spool from the previous mod). Both sets will work as a team, if the friction becomes too high on one set, the next set will be allowed to kick in. Or optimally, they will both work at the same time and your shaft will spin ½ for each spool rotation.
Instructions:
1. Remove the spool assembly from the reel as you did in instruction set #1
2. Take apart the spool assembly until you are left with nothing but the spool itself and the IAR bearing which you are about to remove
3. Generously apply oil where the IAR bearing meets the spool, let it soak through for a few minutes. Repeat on the other side.
4. Apply some distributed heat to the spool neck surrounding the IAR bearing for about 5 seconds while carefully rotating the spool. Be sure not to hold the flame in one place for too long, better to wave it back and forth. Also be sure nothing flammable is around the flame. (Note: Heat can only be applied if there is no line on the spool. Trying to remove it without the use of heat may be more difficult).
5. Now stand up the spool such that the IAR bearing is on the side closer to the bottom and place on the stack of paper. (Newspaper or paper should be at least 0.5cm high to absorb some of the impact and to prevent damage to the spool during the hammering.)
6. With the rod placed in the spool with your one hand ensuring it is centered. Carefully direct the hammer to the rod, be careful not to miss and hit your spool. Hit it a few times and check if the bearing has moved. If not, re-apply heat and add more pressure. It took a medium to hard hit for me, hardest part was aiming with some force.
7. With some luck your IAR bearing should come out! With the IAR bearing removed, clean the oil from the spool and reassemble and you’re done!
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